I’ve always been a gear-do, but not a collector. My interest in tools, equipment, gear, and the like has always been about getting the job done. Increasing performance or making it easier or more enjoyable. Being more efficient and increasing productivity. It’s about having equipment that will do what you demand of it and not turning a job into a fiasco.
It’s never been a show and tell kind of thing. Or flexing on the poors as they say.
When Black Friday occurred last year, it dawned on me that I’m not exactly your average gun guy. Most folks who are tossing around cash are impulse buying gear. Buying another pistol just to say you own one.
If I’m building a gun or need to replace some worn out parts, I’m not scared of a Black Friday deal.
Buddies were sending me deals on half price triggers and doodads while I was buying boxes of USPSA targets at a steep discount. Pasters. Ammo. Stuff that aids your practice in pursuing performance vs. the 5th Glock trigger you are gonna try to stop your 12” pre-ignition push.
Everyone wants to talk about guns or what to carry in their “load out.”
These same guys who go over minute details of what to carry for Red Dawn then they’ll go put a shoot a greasy pizza box leaned up against something for their “practice.”
I’ve been a fan of having a solid range set up for quite some time. If you try to pursue excellence so to speak, in targetry, stands, and the like, it tends to set you up for success in my experience.
I’m much more interested in properly resourced training than safe queens.
Having been around a LOT of shooting in my day, I’ve probably seen it all. A shoot and see on back of a beer box. Hanging cardboard from electric fence wire.
Belonging to a couple different ranges over the past decade I’ve noticed nearly no one has any type of target stands for instance. Most won’t even have targets. I’ve seen entire groups of people leave the range because someone was using the 2-3 on-site target stands. What do you think this is, the Soviet Union? Got a right to a target stand at the range? Why not, get your own stuff.
I’m going to list suggested equipment and a brief description of rec’s of consumables as well as what works and what doesn’t. Context is practical type pistol and carbine training.
Targets and Stands:
Most guys getting after it for performance are generally using USPSA silhouettes. They work for general shooting, gamer stuff and self defense.
Paper targets like VTAC are popular. Also keep a supply of 3×5” cards, 4×6” cards ave copy paper.
I dig USPSA cardboard also for the ability to use it as a backer for printed targets like B8’s and other similar targets.
It’s popular for “tactical” focused ranges or instructors to rely on a rope type system for their line work. It works decent. The draw back is, you are glued to that set up. A much better system is to pony up the cash for USPSA type target stands that you can move wherever you want. Moveable stands are a must for arranging targets laterally, but more importantly for putting targets at different depth.
Roll your own if you are able or just purchase premade. Getting stands for both 1×2’s and 2×3 or 2×4 poles for hanging steel kills two birds with one stone.
Which brings us to targets. If you are using USPSA cardboard you’ll need 18” stands. VTAC and similar targets will require a 24×35” backer, therefore a 24” stand. Some things to consider.
I personally have mostly 18” stands, some that accept 18” and 24”. There are also adjustable stands. Most serious shooters today generally are using USPSA targets. In detective work we call this a clue.
How many? 3 to start minimum. With 5 you are about able to do anything you want for the style of shooting I do. Ideal? 10. If you shoot with people, host classes, or instruct, I’d be looking at 15 minimum.
To accompany your stands, you’ll need a supply of 1×2’s, cut about 5’ works great. They fit into vehicles better and any longer length is never used. In packs of 6, you can batch cut while still banded with one pass of a skilsaw.
Keep plenty on hand to mark fault lines and shooting positions.
You’ll be replacing them regularly.
Fasten cardboard targets to the sticks preferably with large binder clips. They are consumable and they are expensive compared to staples. (Which also work.)
Day to day shooting I prefer clips. If it’s some group range day or a class I usually go with staples to save clips. You will however have to deal with staple jaggers in your sticks.
Target repair:
You’ll need a steady supply of both paster tape and square pasters for USPSA targets. Buy in bulk. Tape works great, but takes longer. Paster guns will change your life. They will speed up your target repair therefore maximizing use of your valuable time.
Black pasters and tape serve as aiming and zeroing points. Black tape can double as marking off out of play areas in shoot house stuff, for example. Black is also needed for B-8’s and black targets like VTAC’s. Beige standard masking tape can serve the same purpose.
3M 77 spray adhesive is the only way to roll for glueing paper targets to backers. It’s the red can, the green can is over kill.
Small orange cones from the Walmart sports section are great for marking yard lines or shooting spots.
Moving to steel targets. I love steel but recognize its drawbacks.
It’s common for guys to skimp on steel target hangers. They’ll go the T post mount route. That’s great in my experience for distance targets that aren’t moved. They are also probably the least maintenance.
The drawback is (unless you aren’t really training) they are very hard to move. Which is a must for any serious training,
I recall one big “group” range day. The guy said he had the steel covered and he would use T post mounts. I said fine, but you’ll have to be pulling and driving stakes all day. After a half a day of that, he told me I was right about the moveable stand.
I recommend hangers that fit into a 2×4 and fit into your USPSA stands by way of a rectangular tubing post slot.
You can also use shorter or higher poles to have elevation changes in your transition game.
For the steel it’s self, AR500/550 obviously. Bare minimum? 1 C zone. 1- 6 or 8” circle and 1 – 8×11”. A “good” set up? Same as above, but go for 3-5 total of the 8×11-ish size. You can do a lot with just these sizes.
Add in several 6, 8 and 10” rounds, and a mini popper or two.
Plate racks, Texas stars, etc are fun, but not necessary. If budget allows, go for it.
Avoid full size IPSC/Iron Maiden’s unless shooting at distance, 300+ yards.
Drums or blue barrels are a necessity for vision barriers. I tend to use them more for this than to represent cover. 55 gal variety. Light, cheap and often times free if you find the right source.
A nice to have is some 2×4 or 1×2 poles on either some type of signs or light weight panels approximately 3×6’ or so to provide walls or barriers. The same set up can be had with orange highway mesh fencing. Put the poles in a target stand and you can create walls or ports, or things such as walls and door thresh holds for CQB.
In your range crate, keep gloves for moving steel and stands around, they’ll get jaggers all over. You do not want spall in your hands. Also keep tools, wrenches, extra hardware, nuts, and bolts to fix hangers.
A box of sharpie markers is necessary for scoring, marking targets, aiming references, notes, etc.
Lastly don’t forget spray paint for refreshing steel, adding water lines, etc. White and black minimum. I also suggest reds, blues, greens , etc for processing exercises or labeling targets.
This should get you started. Step up your range set up and equipment. I can guarantee getting a little more serious than the election sign or the scrap steel from the junk yard will help to motivate you to get better and make the experience more enjoyable.